Lets talk Inclusions and Blemishes
1. Inclusions:
Inclusions are internal imperfections or natural features inside a gemstone. They are often called "nature’s fingerprints" because they are unique to each gem. Inclusions can vary in size, location, relief, nature, and number. The impact of inclusions depends on where they are located, and those near the table (the flat top of the gemstone) are especially important. Let’s break down how these factors influence value:
- Size: Larger inclusions, particularly those near the table, are more visible and can lower the value of the gemstone. A large inclusion near the table can be easily seen and affect the clarity, which is critical in determining a gemstone’s appeal and price.
- Location: Inclusions near the table are often more noticeable because this is the area that faces outward when the stone is set in jewelry. If an inclusion is near the table, it directly affects the gemstone’s overall transparency and brilliance. Inclusions near the table can also interfere with how light interacts with the stone, reducing its sparkle.
- Relief: The relief of an inclusion refers to how visible it is. An inclusion with high relief near the table is particularly problematic because it will be more noticeable to the naked eye. Low-relief inclusions near the table may be less obvious, but still present, which can affect the gemstone’s clarity.
- Nature: The type of inclusion is important, too. For example, a crack or fracture near the table could compromise the stone’s durability, making it more vulnerable to damage. A crystal inclusion near the table may not impact the gem's durability but could still lower its clarity and affect its overall aesthetic appeal.
- Number: Multiple inclusions near the table can significantly detract from the gemstone’s brilliance and clarity. A gemstone with several visible inclusions near the table might look less appealing and, therefore, be less valuable.
Impact on Value: Inclusions near the table are more problematic than those closer to the back or edges of the gemstone. In colored stones like emeralds and sapphires, inclusions near the table that affect transparency or brilliance will lower their market value more than inclusions that are hidden away. For diamonds, inclusions near the table can dramatically affect their clarity grade and value, as clarity is a critical factor in determining a diamond's price.
2. Blemishes:
Blemishes are external imperfections that affect the surface of a gemstone, such as scratches, chips, or surface discoloration. They are often more visible than inclusions and can detract from the overall luster of the stone.
- Size: Larger blemishes near the table can be highly noticeable, lowering the gemstone's value. Surface imperfections like chips or scratches on the table can negatively affect both appearance and durability.
- Location: Blemishes near the table are particularly concerning because they are in the area that faces outward when the gemstone is worn in jewelry. Chips or scratches in this area can be easily seen and are more likely to reduce the gemstone’s visual appeal.
- Relief: The relief of the blemish, or how obvious it is, impacts its effect on value. High-relief blemishes near the table (like a visible chip) are more damaging to the stone’s appearance than low-relief blemishes (like tiny surface abrasions).
- Nature: The type of blemish is important as well. A deep scratch or chip near the table can not only affect the stone’s surface brilliance but also make the gemstone more susceptible to further damage.
- Number: Multiple blemishes near the table can greatly reduce the value of the gemstone by making it look less pristine and reducing its overall visual appeal.
Lets Talk Basics of Cleaning Jewelry
General Gemstone Cleaning Tips:
- Avoid Chemicals: Harsh cleaning chemicals like bleach, ammonia, or strong acids can damage gemstones. Always use mild soap and warm water.
- Use Soft Brushes and Cloths: Use a soft-bristled brush (like a toothbrush) or a microfiber cloth to gently scrub gemstones. Avoid using abrasive materials that could scratch the surface.
- Ultrasonic Cleaners: While some stones like diamonds, sapphires, and rubies can be safely cleaned in ultrasonic machines, others, like emeralds, opals, and pearls, should never be exposed to them.
- Steam Cleaners: These are safe for hard, durable gemstones like diamonds and sapphires but should be avoided for softer stones like turquoise and opal, which can crack or become damaged.
Lets Talk about what constitutes the value of a Gemstone!
color: In the gemstone world, color is one of the most important factors. The richest, most vivid colors are often the most valuable. For example, the deep blue of a sapphire or the vibrant red of a ruby can significantly increase a gemstone’s value. The key elements of color include its hue, tone, and saturation, with a pure, intense color being the most desirable.
Rarity: A gemstone’s rarity greatly affects its value. Stones like tanzanite, which are only found in a small area of Tanzania, or high-quality Colombian emeralds, are highly sought after for their scarcity. The rarer the stone, especially in exceptional quality, the higher its value.
Durability (Hardness & Toughness): Durability refers to a gemstone’s ability to withstand wear and tear, and it includes two important components—hardness and toughness:
- Hardness measures a gemstone's resistance to scratching, which is important in daily wear. For instance, diamonds (the hardest gemstone) score a 10 on the Mohs scale and are extremely resistant to scratches, making them ideal for rings and bracelets that are worn daily. Sapphires and rubies, also members of the corundum family, are incredibly hard as well, scoring 9 on the Mohs scale, which makes them highly durable.
- Toughness measures a gemstone’s ability to resist breaking or chipping. For example, emeralds, while beautiful, are not the toughest gemstone. Their internal inclusions (often called "jardin") can make them more prone to cracking or chipping under stress, despite their hardness (7.5–8 on the Mohs scale). In contrast, tourmaline is relatively tough, even though it's softer (with a Mohs rating around 7 to 7.5), and is often a better choice for jewelry pieces that will endure more impact.
Fun Fact:
Gemstones and Their Global Adventures! Did you know that some gemstones travel far from their source before they make it to you? For example, sapphires from Sri Lanka are cut in Thailand, diamonds from Africa are often polished in India, and tanzanite from Tanzania might be set in New York! The journey from mine to market is a long one, and it makes each gemstone a unique story to tell.
From Mine to Market: The Journey of a Gemstone!
Ever wonder how a gemstone goes from being buried deep within the Earth to sparkling on a ring?
The journey from mine to market is a fascinating and complex process that involves multiple steps and skilled hands along the way. Let’s take a look at how gemstones are extracted, transformed, and brought to you—the final consumer!
Extraction: Digging Deep into the Earth
The journey begins at the source: the mines. Gemstones are often found in specific geological environments, and mining techniques vary depending on the location and type of gemstone.
- Colombia is famous for its emeralds, which are extracted from mines in the Boyacá region, especially around the town of Muzo. The miners work in underground tunnels to carefully extract the emerald-bearing rock. In other regions, such as Sri Lanka, sapphires are sourced from alluvial mines, where gemstones are found in riverbeds and stream deposits.
The mining process requires precision and care to avoid damaging the stones. Large mining companies often have specialized equipment, but small-scale, artisanal miners also play a big role in many countries, using hand tools and traditional methods to extract gems.
Fun Fact: In places like Tanzania, artisanal miners are often the first ones to find rare gems like tanzanite, which is mined from the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro.
2. Sorting and Grading: The First Step to Transformation
Once the gemstones are extracted, they go through a meticulous process of sorting and grading. Miners or commercial companies sort the rough stones based on quality, color, size, and clarity.
- In Colombia, rough emeralds are first inspected for quality before being sold to dealers. The highest-quality emeralds are often set aside for faceting and polishing, while lower-quality stones may be used in beads or carvings.
At this stage, the stones are still rough and unpolished, but experts can already start to identify their potential.
3. Faceting and Cutting: Transforming Rough Stones into Gems
Now comes the magic—the transformation from rough stone to a dazzling gemstone! This is where faceting and cutting come in, and it's one of the most critical stages of the process. Cutting a gemstone involves creating symmetrical facets (flat surfaces) that allow the stone to reflect light and sparkle.
- Vertical Integration Example: Colombia has integrated much of its emerald industry to include cutting and faceting in the country itself. While some rough emeralds are sent to cutting centers in Thailand or India, Colombia is increasingly keeping this part of the process in-house to boost local jobs and expertise.
- Thailand is a major hub for cutting and faceting gemstones like sapphires and rubies. The country has specialized cutting factories where highly skilled craftsmen work with both local and imported gems.
By faceting the gems in the country of origin, nations like Colombia and Thailand are adding value to the gemstones before they reach the international market. This is called beneficiation, which is an important part of vertical integration, where countries keep more of the gemstone’s value by processing it locally rather than exporting raw materials.
Fun Fact: Cutting a gem isn’t just about making it pretty! The way a stone is cut can drastically affect its final value. A poorly cut gem can lose a lot of its brilliance, while a well-cut gem can maximize color and light reflection.
4. Commercialization: Entering the Global Market
Once the gemstones have been cut and polished, they enter the commercial market. This is where dealers, wholesalers, and retailers play a role in getting the gems into the hands of consumers.
- India and Thailand are two of the biggest commercial centers for gemstones. They receive rough gemstones from all over the world, process them, and then sell them through international gem markets. India, particularly Jaipur, is a hub for the trade of colored stones like rubies, sapphires, and emeralds.
- Vertical Integration Example: Some companies, like Tiffany & Co., vertically integrate by managing every step of the gemstone’s journey, from the mines to the retail stores. This ensures better control over the quality and ethical sourcing of their gems.
5. The Jewelry Workshop: Setting the Stones
Before the gemstones reach you, they are often set into beautiful pieces of jewelry. This stage involves skilled jewelers who design and create the final product, whether it’s a ring, necklace, or bracelet.
- In countries like Italy, the U.S., and Germany, you’ll find luxury jewelry production centers where top designers craft intricate pieces to showcase the gems. Many family jewelers, like Leonardo Legacy Jewels, specialize in creating custom pieces that reflect the unique qualities of each gemstone.
6. Into Your Hands: The Consumer Experience
Finally, after a gemstone has been mined, sorted, cut, traded, and set into jewelry, it reaches the retail market—where it can be yours! But by the time it lands in your hands, the gemstone has already traveled through a complex, global supply chain.
- Retail Stores and Online Marketplaces: Today, you can find gemstones and fine jewelry in luxury boutiques, department stores, and online platforms. Companies like ours at Leonardo Legacy Jewels pride ourselves not only on providing stunning, custom-made pieces but also on educating our customers about the gemstones they’re buying.
Vertical Integration Example: Some jewelry brands oversee every step of the process—from mining to retail—ensuring that their gems are ethically sourced and sustainably handled. By controlling every part of the supply chain, they can guarantee the highest quality while maintaining transparency with customers.
A Global Process with Local Impact:
The "mine to market" process is a perfect example of vertical integration—where each step, from extraction to retail, can be handled by different companies or within a single company structure. In some countries, like Colombia or Botswana, governments encourage beneficiation, keeping more of the processing and production local to boost the economy and create jobs.
Matthew’s Takeaway:
The journey from mine to market is as incredible as the gemstones themselves! The next time you admire a sparkling ruby or an emerald set in a stunning ring, remember that it took miners, cutters, dealers, and jewelers working together across continents to bring that beautiful piece to your hands. At Leonardo Legacy Jewels, we’re passionate not only about crafting unique jewelry but also about sharing the incredible stories behind each gem.
Garnets!
Fun Fact from Your Gemologist: Garnets are a fascinating family of gemstones! While they're all part of the garnet species, each variety has its own unique properties. For example, spessartine (seen in the picture) displays vibrant oranges, while almandine is known for its deep red hues. Despite having different refractive indexes, all garnets share a common optical trait: they are singly refractive, meaning light doesn't split into two rays, unlike many other gemstones. This consistency in light behavior makes garnets even more intriguing in the world of gemology!